I'm in Beirut, Lebanon 🇱🇧 , for the holidays, spending time with family. Today, as part of my training, I set out to run a half marathon, taking in the ever-changing sights and contrasts this city has to offer.
With my earphones on and sneakers laced, I stepped outside, capturing a few glimpses of the city. But my thoughts ran much deeper.
I counted 36 collapsed houses, their ruins revealing pianos, desks, and toilets, draped with flags of Amal and Hezbollah, the two Shia political parties. The streets were plastered with posters of martyrs and images of Hassan Nasrallah.
Just 200 meters from my house, I even came across an unexploded Israeli weapon found by a janitor. Any ballistic specialists want to weigh in?
Amidst this chaos, I dodged street cats, navigated around overflowing sewer puddles, and avoided motorcycles driving against traffic...all while listening to S-Town, a true-crime NYT podcast about the life, genius, and struggles of an eccentric horologist in conservative Alabama.
I passed ساحة النجمة, a square sealed off for years, shocked to find it open. I ran by mosques, churches, military checkpoints, and the city’s patchwork of new buildings and shops coexisting with bullet-riddled ruins. Beirut is full of contrasts.
A few kilometers later, as if nothing, expats back for the holidays talking under the winter sun about where they'll party next in Gemmayzeh, a neighborhood in constant flux, with new restaurants opening while others shut their doors. But also some timeless classics like the bar where I first got tipsy on arak at 15, learning the hard way that drinking on an empty stomach is a bad idea.
I fell just 1.6km short of completing the half marathon: my right knee gave out with 7 kilometers left. I limped the rest of the way, shivering and sweating, realizing a single banana isn’t enough fuel for a run.
Now, as I write this with a throbbing knee and a head full of questions, I’m trying to process everything: the sights, smells, emotions, and absurdity of life here. I love Beirut, I hate Beirut. In just two hours, I was flooded with a cocktail of contradictions, and I’m left wondering: what the hell do we do with it all?
1 year ago