As a New Yorker, it’s hard to imagine myself lusting for pizza in Paris, but that was before I tried @oobatzpizza . The sourdough crusts are so texturally good, perfect char, spring and lightness, and the toppings are so pure, that it all makes for a magnificent pie. Great wine list, too.
Whatever the variety, whatever the place, Matt Taylor is making great wines and showing rare versatility, even as he no longer has access to his signature vineyard.
Burgundy is the most coveted wine in the world, the most emulated and the most expensive. Still, those without trust funds still have a way in to understand why the wines are so enticing. No, you won’t find a good bottle for $10 or $20. But the beauty is there for $35 to $50. Here are 12 examples.
So we sit down at Cafe Mutton at 10 am and my friend @chefmateonyc immediately spots the pork leg on the list of specials. “We have to have that, no?” Yes! What a treat, perfectly crisp skin, juicy meat full of flavor, in a sauce so complex and layered, yet light and easy to digest. “You’ll want some bread with that, right?” Right! Mindblowing goodness, the four of us devoured it entirely. Of course we could not ignore Mutton’s crepes and cabbage salad. What a meal.
My first time tasting the Napa cabernets from Pilcrow, and what an eye-opener — complex, multi-dimensional and layered — I loved it, and alcohol under 13 percent. Pilcrow makes four cuvées, each from a different Napa terroir. Looking forward to trying the others.
What does a wine critic need to report on one of the world’s oldest and most popular indulgences? 🍷 A corkscrew, a floor drain and a good night’s rest, to name a few. Swipe through to see all of chief wine critic Eric Asimov’s essentials.
Illustrations by @sarahmaffeis
