Ed Ma

“Crocodile Smile” - V6 ⭐️⭐️ Gateway Canyon - Red Rock Canyon, NV 20+ burns to sort out my beta, 5 bottom rips to send The second I saw this boulder it looked terrifying and I knew I had to climb it. This rig is totally my style. Steep sketchy roof climbing with a 22ft top out and a landing that’s giving hospital visits. The video footy doesn’t tell the story of how gnarly this thing looks in real life. Aptly named, you don’t wanna fall into this crocodile’s mouth bc the landing is treacherous. Book grade says V6 and in the tradition of sandbagged Red Rocks V6’s I can see how that can make sense. But for me the technical difficulty felt more in line with “Express Derailed” V7 up in Mt. Charleston as both climbs are similar in style. This one is way spicier tho. I waited for one of the hottest days of the heatwave this week and it paid off. My fingers numbed out just as I touched the final jug. Glad I didn’t have to wait until the summer to send this. Big thanks to @boulder.beans @brrraandon & @chreeeeees for the support on this rig. 5 trips total to this boulder over the span of 18 months. So much fun. Highly recommended. Such an amazing climb.

“Whackamole” 5.11b (lead rope solo) 4 attempts over 2 sessions Blue Diamond Cave - Red Rock Canyon, NV Blue Diamond Cave is my home crag (less than 10 min from my house). I’m slowly falling in love with this place. As with all of the routes under 5.12 the fall zones are sketchy and littered with sharp jagged limestone. This one was definitely tough to work on lead rope solo. It’s got a pretty physical undercling off width crux as you pull over a reachy bulge to top out. Book grade is 5.11b but the spice factor is higher than that. Highly recommended and you might even get a visit from a family of peaceful burro’s 🫏 My first rope solo using the Edelrid fuse + Petzl Microtraxion as my cache loop / back up system. Although there’s no perfect LRS system, I’m pretty pleased with this setup.

“Natasha’s Highball” v2 ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (Flash) Black Velvet Canyon - Red Rock Canyon, NV I had a lovely bday weekend playing crag guide and side questing with the LA homies @herowtoe and @thodesies . Black Velvet is my home crag so I’ve been wanting to send Natasha’s for a while. Grateful that the homies were down for the trek deep into the canyons. Also big thanks to the passing tourist climbers for the spot. This is such an amazing climb. An absolute must try for anyone interested.

“Saguaro” 5.11b (lead rope solo) 5 attempts over 12 months. Went 2nd go today Cactus Massacre, Red Rock Canyon, NV This climb has taught how there’s so many more tactics involved with lead rope soloing. From strategically mapping out when to drop cache loops to when to feed extra slack or take in more slack, to not short roping myself or getting tangled in my own spaghetti. I have to be way more calculated even when climbing mid 5.11 on LRS. If I had a belay partner this is the kind of climb I would just physically muscle through, but without a belayer I had to make the tactical decision to not clip at the crux bolt and keep climbing through to the next bolt (where I also drop a cache loop). It’s these little details that make LRS a constant chess match between myself, the wall, the risk and what I think I’m capable of. One nice thing about LRS is that I was able to work the crux for 20 minutes until I felt I had it totally dialed. If I had a belayer I would feel like I would be burdening them. But on LRS I can take all the time I need to find the best micro beta. Loving the journey of lead rope soloing. It’s definitely way more of a logistical hassle but if you can get past that, the freedom is pretty rewarding. Grateful for another beautiful day at the crag 🙏

“Eternal Optimist” V5 ⭐️⭐️⭐️ Calico Tanks Peak - Red Rock Canyon, NV FA: @basaltbae (10+ working burns on top rope, sent on the third bottom rip) A fresh banger from last weekend romping around Calico Tanks Peak with @basaltbae checking out a some of his new first ascent projects. Mega trek to get up into this zone but totally worth it. Hard crimping on slab is about as anti-style as it gets for me but this rig deserves all of the stars. Stylistically it climbs like @ryan.lieberman ‘s “Coreshot” but with worse feet (if you can believe it). Not as tall as Coreshot but headier and spicier. Full value. Highly recommended. Always a blast and an adventure with you @basaltbae !

“Desert Pickle” 5.11c ⭐️ Wall of Confusion - Red Rock Canyon, NV 8 attempts over 12 months Fun day out with my guy @asengmavong . We planned on projecting “Fear and Loathing” but this rig shredded all of my skin before we had a chance to try. An anti-style reachy and crimpy climb for me. But I’m determined to lean into my weaknesses to become a more well rounded rock climber. Cool moves nonetheless.

“Cactus Massacre” 5.11c 8 attempts over 2 sessions Cactus Massacre - 1st Pullout Red Rock Canyon, NV It’s been a fun couple of days playing tour guide to some of the climbing homies from Los Angeles. Once again the crag was dry. Big moves on an overhung wall with a spicy finish in the sun with good company. Thanks @kohalaclimbs for the catch. Safe travels ✌️

“The Carapace” V7 15 attempts Oak Creek Canyon - Red Rock Canyon, NV No rock was harmed in the process. The Carapace and surrounding area was dry and baking in the sun. As I topped this boulder I’m reminded of distant bittersweet memories at this rock, during this week, many moons ago. And in these moments I need to dig deep and remind myself that with every loss there’s a lesson. Big thanks to my guy @badchuychuy for always being down for these remote missions. Grateful for u my man. Always an adventure. #teamsend 🙏 It’s profound that change really is the only constant yet this rock has been sitting here for eons.

“Spectre Royale” ⭐️⭐️ V7 (felt like V8) Upper Red Springs - Red Rock Canyon, NV 53 working burns 3 bottom rips = 56 attempts over 3 sessions FA: @joshblocs The allure of hard to reach boulders that are tucked high up in the mountains, continues to entice me to lone wolf it up to these remote locations. Today the solitude was so peaceful I could only hear the wind and my thoughts. The first time @joshblocs and @ryan.lieberman took me up here this rig felt so sharp I couldn’t even establish my starting position. But I knew I wanted to come back and take it down before the heat became unbearable. With razor sharp holds, non existent feet and a high consequence 20ft+ top out, this rig has something for everyone. Although roof climbing is my speciality, this thing felt way harder for me than the proposed grade. Definitely gonna come back next season once my left hammy is fully healed to try the V10 variation “Royale With Cheese”. Hats off to my guy @joshblocs for the vision. This thing is pretty wild. Well done 👍

“Dark Magic” ⭐️⭐️⭐️ V8/9 Gateway Canyon - Red Rock Canyon, NV FA: @matt.maples 83 working burns 13 bottom rips = 96 attempts In the wake of @yaarrohs ‘ passing it seemed like the time was right to lone wolf it back up to Dark Magic for another visit. For Jacqueline was magic and darkness personified. A true witch from the heavens casting white magic everywhere while constantly in cahoots with her darkest inner demons. On the 13th send attempt, I finally took down Dark Magic. Like a cat with nine lives, Jacqueline’s lucky presence was felt. Thank you to everyone who has left a comment on my past few posts or sent kind words through a DM or text. It’s been a little overwhelming and heavy on my heart to respond to all of you. But the love and kindness has been received and felt. Thank you 🙏 ❤️ The first time I was up here (with the legend @berman_craig ) he sent in 3 burns, and then graciously offered to power spot me as I floundered under this boulder like a beached whale. At the time this rig felt so impossible that I wrote it off as being my extreme anti style. It’s profound how tragedy and deep grief can cause us to look at things differently and allow us to transcend the very boxes we put ourselves in. Big thanks to @basaltbae for your support, and our friendship during this tough time. I appreciated our conversations under this boulder and I appreciate you even more. I look forward to our adventures this summer. ⚒️ Big up @hallie.m.gordon I used a bunch of your beta and it really helped me precision laser cut my own sequence. You made it look so clean and and easy on the gram. Super strong 💪 And of course hats off to the legend @matt.maples for your creativity and vision. This rig is obviously a strong contender for best new boulder of the season and I now understand why.

“Giddy Up” ⭐️V5 ( felt like V6) Crimson Saddle - Red Rock Canyon, NV 2 sessions - 40 burns (including Saddle Up) FA: @ryan.lieberman Left variation for “Saddle Up”. It went in two tries after I nailed the beta for the previous boulder. Another boulder where not dabbing is part the crux.

“Saddle Up” ⭐️V5 ( felt like V6) Crimson Saddle - Red Rock Canyon, NV 2 sessions - 38 burns FA: @ryan.lieberman I first tried this boulder the day I sent Crimson Saddle Stand and it felt so impossible for the grade. I’ve been lifting a bunch this month so I’m glad it went in 8 tries today. Another fun one one from my guy @ryan.lieberman . My first time posting a climb from the crag. Technology is crazy