On the occasion of Kannada Rajyotsava, vignettes from a recent journey through Karnataka — one that hoped to rekindle our connection with the land, its layered history, and the cultural traces left behind by our ancestors.
Like our first such journey in 2017, this trip too followed a simple mandate: to seek stories off the beaten path. My brother Loki, our dear friend Pramod, and I co-curated a route that led us from Rashtrakavi Kuvempu’s Kuppali to Ādikavi Pampa’s Banavasi.
This year, we loosely centered our travels around the Keladi Nayakas, the often overshadowed rulers who rose to prominence after the fall of the Vijayanagara Empire and governed these parts for nearly 250 years. Their legacy, scattered across temples, towns, and memory, quietly shapes much of coastal and malnad Karnataka.
There is so much to say about each place we explored, but for now, here are a few glimpses!
1. Tablet inscribed with medieval Kannada poet Janna’s verses praising Hoysala King Veera Ballala II — Amrutheshwara Temple, near Tarikere
2. The Amrutheshwara Temple (1196 CE), built by Amrutheshwara Dandanayaka
3. Ornate shikhara of the temple
4. My companion on this journey
5, 6. Kuvempu’s ancestral home, Kuppali, near Thirthahalli
7. River Tunga, Thirthahalli
8. Filter coffee on Car Street, Thirthahalli
9. Monolithic pillar at the Panchakuta Jain Basti, Humcha (1077 CE, built by Chittaladevi)
10. Old Kannada inscription in the Basti, Humcha
11. Idol of Parshvanatha in the Panchakuta Basti, Humcha
12. Local produce for sale on the way to Sagara
13, 14, 15. Aghoreshvara Temple, Ikkeri — granite structure blending Vijayanagara, Karnataka Dravida (Later Chalukya), and Hoysala styles
16. Jog Falls
17. Fish meals at Hotel Mahabala, Sirsi
18. The quietly flowing Shalmala River, near Sirsi
19, 20. The 4th-century Madhukeshvara Temple, Banavasi — built by the Kadambas, Karnataka’s first indigenous dynasty
With
@lokimuthu
#roadtrip #Karnataka #Hoysala #heritage #history #Chalukya #Kadamba #Banavasi