The barrel
The body enters survival mode.
When the liquid wall closes around you, the body releases adrenaline, noradrenaline, and dopamine.
The heart races, muscles turn into pure precision, and the senses sharpen with almost superhuman clarity.
Time slows down.
The body doesn’t think — it responds.
It’s instinct in its purest form — the reptilian brain awakened.
The mammalian reflex.
Water touches the skin, and the body remembers it came from the sea.
The mammalian dive reflex slows the heart and conserves oxygen.
Blood retreats to the vital organs, as if performing a ritual of protection.
In that moment, you cease to be an individual — you become an organism in harmony with the liquid medium.
The chemistry of ecstasy.
Endorphins, serotonin, and dopamine intertwine in an electric flow.
It’s the same trio that fuels pleasure, love, and deep meditation.
That’s why the barrel is addictive — it is both danger and refuge.
A moment when the body feels everything and the mind disappears.
The surfer is no longer surfing — he is the movement of water itself.
Silence within chaos.
The sound inside the barrel changes.
It becomes low, muffled, almost womb-like.
The brain interprets that shift as silence — and silence means presence.
It’s within that sonic vacuum that flow is born —
the state where body and time lose their edges.
It’s science and spirituality touching for the first time.
The after-barrel.
When the wave opens and air floods back in,
the body releases cortisol, trying to restore order.
There’s exhaustion, but also a soft euphoria.
It’s the biochemistry of surrender —
you’ve survived the ocean’s fury and been rewarded with a glimpse of transcendence.
Matter, water, and consciousness.
The barrel is the point where all elements converge:
compressed air, spiraling water, filtered light, and a present body.
Physically, it’s a curve of pure energy.
Spiritually, it’s a slit between worlds.
The instant where human and ocean share the same pulse.
Último swell da Rainy season algumas semanas atrás literalmente na frente de casa.
Onda rara e perigosa so com os amigos na água .
Twin fin by @80surfboards@eko.setya.budi
🎥 @glandfilms
Um pouco da minha contribuição para o @house.of.sunday nesses últimos anos.
Muito orgulho de ser latino sul-americano e representar a minha cultura e gastronomia do outro lado do mundo .
1. Pf nosso do santo dia
2. Miolo da alcatra e picanha
3. Galinhada
4. Feijoada
5. Moqueca em Tokyo
6. Espetinho
7. Sorvete de matcha japonês , leite de cabra, mel nativo, doce de leite e crumble de pistache
8. Peixe local , purê de cenoura tostada , molho de açaÃ
9. Bife a cavalo no pão francês e chimichurri
10. Panelaços
11. Pão de queijo
12. Bento Marmita
13. Moqueca
14. Baunilha e leite cru
15. Arroz com frango
16. Marmita
17. Diversidade
18. Crie seu prato
19. Frango couve e batata
20. Cheesecake goiaba e tomilho
We’re trying a new mini-series to give an honest look at how we work and what actually comes out of it.
This first one documents @de_aronson and @yurikasari27 and their attempts at creating a protein bar. How many times do we try something before it’s good enough to put on the menu, and then no one buys it?
The answer is: more than once.
Yet we won’t give up! and when we manage to get it right we’ll share the recipe here.
Thank you everyone for your continued support. We truly appreciate you, and we’re happy you’re here ♡
#grindtime #proteinbar #sundaykitchen #canggu #opensource
35 trips around the sun.
I am very grateful for all the blessings that life has given me, and those that I pursued and made happen regardless of the difficulties.
This year I learned to set limits, both for myself and for others, and that’s how I discovered who my true friends are.
I smiled, I cried, I withdrew, and I came back stronger. I insist on saying that it’s pointless to live my dream if I didn’t have so many wonderful people to share it with.
Instagram won’t let me tag everyone, but here we are.