The most afraid I’ve ever been was in July of last year.
Petit grepon, 2025.
The weather forecast wasn’t perfect - but I thought, I can climb 5.9 in the rain.
Turns out, I can’t.
We started the route with t-shirts and blue skies. But then three hours later and 800 ft off the ground lighting cracked through the air, our chalk bags filled with hail, our shoes flooded with pouring rain, the rock was running water and every ledge had accumulated snow. We were on the southwest corner and the rappel route was on the opposite east side - so to get down, we decided to climb up two more pitches to reach the traverse. Finishing these crux pitches was the hardest thing I’ve tried in climbing. I fell 45ft. I broke a totem. And then I landed back where I started! Now what? Do I try again? It’s only because of @cindynotsinning that we were able to breathe. Take a pause. And move one step at a time. When we finally finished that pitch, made the traverse and found the first rapp anchor, a rainbow filled the sky behind us! Even though we were quite cold, we howled for joy knowing we were going down. This day taught me so much. Mostly that I am no match for the mountain weather - but also the power of a partnership and how much stronger that is than being alone.
I’m grateful for every big adventure. The challenge, the fear, the problem solving - but mostly I cherish the time with the people I’m with.
Carbs and Caffeine meant more to me than any other climb last year.
In 2023, my first trad lead was Horseman 5.6. I placed 6 pieces of protection in the 120 ft and didn’t trust any of it. I felt like I was soloing. And so out of place. And afraid.
When I got down, I heard some folks taking about another route. Carbs and Caffeine. I asked them about it. They said it had some committing roofs and was rated 11b!
And in that moment, I felt like they started talking about climbing to the moon. Who were these people? superstars!
Carbs became this route that was - the unattainable.
Then, over the next year, I met some incredible folks. People trying hard. They taught me about trusting gear and building confidence. And at the end of that season, I tried to flash Carbs and Caffeine! I didn’t get it first try, but I was one move away.
@reedeer1 patiently came out the weekend before Thanksgiving and I sent the route. My first 11 and my first time doing something I was so certain I would never do - just one year before.
Folks trying hard that I’m grateful for - @jackielikejackiechan@cierrajustine@geo_peach_face@aurora198@hc.sohn@petsers@zoegreenpea@julia.rosenberg Jake, Nicole, @supernoodlesomething
The first day I met @tyler.ganter and @andrea_giromondo , we climbed Yankee Clipper, a 15 pitch 12a! At first reluctant to try such a big route as a party of three - I convinced them they wouldn’t even know I was there with my TR solo system following behind.
We cruised the whole thing, except I got stuck on the 12a pitch and climbed the fun arete instead.
They we rapped down in half the time since we had two ropes!
A great part of climbing trips is showing up with some folks you’ve never met before and then just a few days later – you leave with close friends that you’ve shared some incredible adventure with.
Can’t wait for the next one.
Potrero Chico 2024
Sean, Nicole, Tyler, Andrea
Last photo @petsers
Time Wave Zero is the longest climb i’ve ever tried. 2,300 ft tall. 23 pitches including a 12a, 11a, and two 10d pitches. I first heard of the route in 2021 and dreamt of trying it ever since.
I onsighted every pitch except the 12a pitch, which was heartbreaking. I lowered and tried two more times and fell both times. Even still, this was one of the greatest adventures of my life and I feel so lucky to have shared it with @petsers who couldn’t have been a better partner.
We also made a fluffy friend we named Flan, on the approach who stayed with us all week.
Time Wave Zero, December 2024
10:26:37 up
3:48:17 down
14 hours 14 minutes total
It costs $3 per night to camp at @miguelsclimbshop in the Red River Gorge. This was my first climbing trip sleeping in a tent on the ground and honestly what more do you need? so great to meet up with @rachel_colleen_ and @nicole . And so lucky to run into @aurora198 and @geo_peach_face in Kentucky!
Air Ride Equipped, 11a flash!
Super Best Friends, 12a fell
Abiyoyo, 12b fell
Swedish Fish, 12a fell
Lots to come back for!
This is me on the start holds of la Rambla in Siurana, Spain – one of the most historic routes in the world after @margojain climbed it to become the first woman in history to climb 5.15a. @sohnhc and I just stared up at it like we were looking at the moon 🌑
Virile man, 11d/7a
Lo Deje to Blanco, 11d/7a
Crosta Panic, 12a/7a+ flash!
Our first day in Mallorca, @sohnhc and i tried to deep water solo a 5a/5.7 route up the 18m/60ft tall Diablo Wall. The approach involved a 5.9 down climb 30 ft above the sea. On the climb, we lost the route, didn’t have any chalk, our oily fingers slipping on everything - we ended up having to bail over to the 10a route next to it. Suddenly we’re onsight soloing 10a 60 ft up with no chalk. I thought that was it.
You think deep water soloing - so fun! Like a water park! I had no idea how tall 18m was. Or even 9m! This trip pushed me every bit as much as trad climbing. And so grateful to have such an adventure with a dear friend.
1 - Slice of Heaven 5a Cova del Diablo
2 - Rich Lady, 7a/11d Cala Mitjana
3 - Hercules, 6b/11b Cala Varques
4 - Virgins are only Human 6a+/10c Cala Sa Nau
I did not run ONE mile from the age of 12 until 33 and the idea of finishing a marathon felt completely unrealistic and impossible.
It’s such an empowering feeling to do something you couldn’t do yesterday.
ny marathon 2023
3:58:13
In January @reedeer1 and I flew to red rocks to climb as many classics as we could! It was chilly and a few days were quite windy - but it was a great week filled with adventure. We definitely pushed ourselves, fell (safely) off The Fox, got off Mescalito in the dark, and most importantly flew home in one piece.
We climbed -
Dark shadows, 10 pitch 5.8 1,000 ft
Epinephrine, 11 pitch 5.9 1,600 ft IV (Reed led all the hard pitches because he’s a champ)
Crimson chrysalis 9 pitch 5.8+ 1,200 ft
I def wouldn’t have made it through those chimneys by myself - “a man’s gotta know his limitations.” This trip showed me the power of a partnership - and what is possible when you work together!
At a certain point you wonder if the friends you have are the only friends you will ever have. When I met @sohnhc this year in the climbing gym, I never thought he’d invite me to Kalymnos to climb. And there, I never expected to meet such a great group of folks @aurora198@reedeer1@petsers and Igor. (I also wasn’t expecting to share a bed with a grown man) but the time there, I will certainly cherish. The sun. The deep blue water. The tufas. The routes. The goats. The food. I tried to soak up as much of it as I could. One of the greatest adventures of my life. 🇬🇷
In August my brother @mtbro88 and I set off to climb Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park. The approach hike is 5 miles and 1,800 ft of elevation gain. And then the climb is 8 pitches / 1,000 ft rated 5.8 III - by far the biggest and most technical climb we’ve ever attempted. It pushed us to our limit and while we ultimately failed to reach the top - we got to share a great adventure together for the first time in years and years. This type of trip would have been unimaginable even a year ago - it’s exciting to grow and push yourself and face your fears! And admit when they’re too scary.
And - we’ll be back!
