Try these 2 exercises to stabilise your shoulders on the wall 👇
1️⃣ Exercise 1: Press Ups
🔁 3 sets x 10 reps
😴 Rest 1 minute between sets
Form: Hands shoulder-width apart
Intensity: Submaximal, no failure on any set
Decrease the intensity by completing the press-ups on your knees – the further away your knees, the higher the intensity
Rest 1 minute before moving on to the next exercise.
2️⃣ Exercise 2: Shoulder Press
🔁 3 sets x 10 reps (per arm)
😴 Rest 1 minute between sets
Form: Start with your hands at shoulder height, extending the arm above your head.
Focus on controlled, slow movements.
Intensity: Submaximal, no failure on any set
🤔 Why are these exercises helpful?
These exercises work the antagonist muscles to those involved with the pulling movements we use in climbing.
These exercises:
• Stabilise the shoulder joint
• Help with specific strength for mantels and pressing moves on the wall
• Aid in preventing ‘climbers' hunch’, reducing risk of injury
📲 Discover more antagonist training sessions in the Crimpd app
The number 1 downloaded climbing training app
Available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #strengthtraining #shoulderstability #crimpd #trainingforclimbing
4 Exercises to Stabilise The Shoulders 👇
This session is an excellent workout to improve the strength and conditioning of the shoulder girdle in a sport-specific manner 🧗
Consistent work on this session throughout a season will improve dead hanging, lock strength, and shoulder health.
1️⃣ Exercise 1: Isometric Dumbbell Row
🔁 3 sets x 2 reps x 20s per rep
😴 10s per rep, 3 mins per set
In a prone (leaning forward) position, pull the dumbbell back into a ‘lock’ with your hand level with your torso.
Hold this position for 20 seconds in a static manner.
Each rep is one side, so that you are completing 2 reps in total, 20 seconds on either arm. Repeat for 3 sets.
Focus on a deep lock with the shoulder fully retracted rather than working with the heaviest weights 🔎
2️⃣ Exercise 2: One-arm Dumbbell Shoulder Press
🔁 2 sets x 5 reps
😴 3 mins per set
5 extra slow, fully in control reps at a sub-maximal weight.
Aim for perfect form 🎯
If you prefer, you may add a very small squat to the beginning of the movement.
You should not fail on any reps ❌
3️⃣ Exercise 3: Wide Grip Pull-Up
🔁 3 sets x 5 reps
😴 3 mins per set
5 reps at 1.5x shoulder width 📏
If this is too difficult at body weight, use therabands or pulley assistance to reduce effort.
If it is too easy, increase width of pull up before increasing weight.
At no point should you progress beyond 2x shoulder width.
4️⃣ Exercise 4: Standing Y
🔁 3 sets x 10 reps
😴 2 mins per set
Concentrate on smooth, consistent power throughout the range of movement whilst maintaining muscle activation in core and glutes.
📲 Discover more antagonist training sessions in the Crimpd app
The number 1 downloaded climbing training app
Available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #strengthtraining #shoulderstability #crimpd #trainingforclimbing
Crimpd+ knows how! 💪🚀 Discover 200+ structured workouts & progressions on the Crimpd app!
✅ Build custom training plans around your climbing goals
✅ Target specific weaknesses with Skill Templates
✅ Schedule and update your training plan whenever, whatever the weather
Whether you're projecting 6B or pushing V11, Crimpd+ helps you train smart, not just hard.
Just $6 a month 😍 (that's basically a cup o' coffee!)
📲 Download the app, link in bio.
#Crimpd #ClimbingTraining #TrainingForClimbing #Bouldering #Klettern
Are you training for a project with small crimps? Let Crimpd+ show you how to train for small edges ⬇️
✅ Build custom training plans around your climbing goals
✅ Target specific weaknesses with Skill Templates
✅ Schedule and update your training plan whenever, whatever the weather
Whether you're projecting 6B or pushing V11, Crimpd+ helps you train smart, not just hard.
Just $6 a month 😍 (that's basically a cup o' coffee!)
📲 Download the app, link in bio.
#Crimpd #ClimbingTraining #TrainingForClimbing #Bouldering #Klettern
Should you be training on small edges? ⬇️ Take the quiz ⬇️
Are all these true for you?
✅ I am an advanced climber with an extensive training background
✅ I'm training for a specific project with small crimps
✅ I have recently completed a finger strength base phase on a 20mm edge to train foundational finger strength
✅ I am injury-free
If all of the above statements are true then you might want to consider training on small edges.
Training on small edges improves finger strength and helps you become accustomed to using smaller hold sizes.
⚠️ Smaller edges place a lot of stress on the soft tissue structures of the fingers, finger joints, and can be very skin-intensive.
➡️ How to train ➡️
To start small edge training, train at 70% of your max effort on the same edge size.
(Check out the Crimpd app for the test, or look at our last post.)
70% is calculated by…
Bodyweight + additional load = total load
→ Total load x 0.7 = training load
E.g. Total load = 70kg (BW) + 15kg (additional load) = 85kg
Training load = 85kg x 0.7 = 60kg
→ So this climber would need to remove 10kg using a pulley.
➡️ Alternatively, you can use Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) to guide your training
Aim for a 7/10 RPE.
As this is based on your perception of effort, the load used during this workout may change slightly between sessions (that’s okay!)
🔥 Warm-Up before training:
Progressively increase the load during your warm-up protocol until you are ready to train at the described intensity.
It is useful to warm up on a bigger edge, and then reduce the edge size as the warm-up progresses, until you reach the 10mm size to be used in training.
📲 Discover more finger strength training sessions in the Crimpd app
The number 1 downloaded climbing training app
Available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #strengthtraining #shoulderstability #crimpd #trainingforclimbing
Small Edges (10mm) 📏🤏 Test Your Finger Strength!
🤷 Who is this test for?
Experienced climbers looking to train or perform on smaller holds.
📅 When should you use this test?
Before and after several weeks or months of specific small-edge training.
🤔 What is this test for?
Calculating training loads for 10mm edge.
⚠️ Warnings:
Maximal testing & training come with a risk of injury. Please follow the rules to reduce the risk of injury. Seek advice from a professional coach if you are unsure how to perform testing safely.
Complete this session after at least 24 hours of rest 😴
Warm-up thoroughly before starting this session, including your fingers for the specific hold size and grip position.
📋 The Session:
On a 10mm edge, complete up to 8 sets of progressively heavier hangs until you reach a maximum score.
You must…
• Hang from 2 arms
• Complete each hang using either half crimp or 4-finger open grip
• Your arms should be straight or with a slight bend – do not lock-off at 90 degrees
• Each hang must last for 7 seconds
When the load becomes too high for you to complete the full 7-second hang, you have reached failure.
The highest load completed for the full 7-seconds is your max score.
The Rules:
❌ Do not change grip positions whilst hanging. If your fingers move or open whilst you are hanging, stop immediately and place your feet on the ground.
✅ Load your fingers slowly when beginning the hang
✅ Increase the load of each set slowly. Increments of up to 5kg should be used.
❌ If you have not reached a max load within 8 sets, finish testing and complete this session on another day.
⚡️ Intensity:
If you cannot complete this session at bodyweight, remove weight using a pulley system and counterweight.
To add load, hang additional weight from a climbing harness or dip belt.
✍️ Recording your score:
Maximal total load (1RM) = Bodyweight + additional weight
Maximal bodyweight % = (Total load / bodyweight) x 100
📲 Crimpd app available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #fingerstrength #climbingtesting #trainingforclimbing
Let Crimpd+ help you improve your flexibility 💪🚀 Discover 200+ structured workouts & progressions on the Crimpd app!
✅ Build custom training plans around your climbing goals
✅ Target specific weaknesses with Skill Templates
✅ Schedule and update your training plan whenever, whatever the weather
Whether you're projecting 6B or pushing V11, Crimpd+ helps you train smart, not just hard.
Just $6 a month 😍 (that's basically a cup o' coffee!)
📲 Download the app, link in bio.
#Crimpd #ClimbingTraining #TrainingForClimbing #Bouldering #Klettern
Improve your hip mobility! 👇 Learn how 👇
This workout is designed to improve hip mobility and become better at moving on the wall. This is achieved by strengthening the muscles through greater range of movement.
Complete each movement slowly and in complete control.
1️⃣ Exercise 1: Side Lunges
3 sets x 10 reps (5 per side)
1 minute rest per set
2️⃣ Exercise 2: Horse Squats
3 sets x 5 reps
1 minute rest per set
3️⃣ Exercise 3:
Front Split Pulses
6 sets (3 per side) x 5 reps (on one side)
30 second rest per set
📲 Discover more mobility sessions in the Crimpd app
The number 1 downloaded climbing training app
Available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #hipmobility #hipflexibility #flexibilityforclimbing #trainingforclimbing
2 REASONS YOU CAN’T KEEP YOUR HIPS TO THE WALL ❌ (And the fixes!) ✅
👎 Reason 1: Inflexibility in the adductors
👍 Solution: Improve your adductor flexibility with exercises like Frog Stretch and Box Split
👎 Reason 2: Muscular weakness in the glutes and abductors
👍 Solution: Improve strength with weighted Pancake Reaches, Horse Squats, and Side Lunges
📲 Find these flexibility sessions (and MORE!) on the Crimpd app
The number 1 downloaded climbing training app
Available on the App Store & Google Play 🧗♂️
🔗 Link in bio
#climbingtraining #flexibility #flexibilitytraining #hipmobility #trainingforclimbing
