P̶L̶E̶A̶S̶E̶ DON'T CLIMB IN BANNED AREAS!
The climbing bans in Victoria have surely been the biggest topic of discussion and contention in Australian climbing over the past decade.
Navigating the muddy waters can be tricky, and I often get messages from folk asking if a boulder or area is open. In most cases, it is just as simple as checking the management plan and seeing if it's listed in a designated climbing area. If it's listed as closed, that should absolutely always be respected, even if you don't agree with the reasons for the closure.
The First Nations people hold cultural significance to land that is far more important than the very recent history of rock climbing. It's just not comparable, so I'll leave it at that.
There are a few boulders and areas however, that aren't listed in the management plan at all. These grey areas haven't been assessed for one reason or another, and the assumption is that they're closed until proven open. Those that have spent considerable time in Gariwerd start to paint a picture as to why some areas might not have been assessed, and can use their moral compass to guide whether or not they feel comfortable climbing there. Maybe the approach is too sketchy to safely bring a team out to assess it, maybe there's no official track to the area, or maybe it's just too small an area to warrant the effort.
Some examples of these grey areas include Dave's Caves, Farside, Ground Control Caves, The Titanic Boulder and In The Cloud. Some of these areas I'm comfortable climbing in, because I have an idea as to why they weren't assessed and they sit directly next to or above another area that is open. Some of these areas I'm not comfortable climbing in, because I don't know why they weren't assessed and they're a good distance away from another open area.
This isn't a justification, it's just a reminder to have conversations about this, read the management plan and ensure you understand the access around areas you're climbing in.
It's so sad to me that we're at a place where so many have chosen to ignore the closures completely. So I'll say it again for the people in the back, P̶L̶E̶A̶S̶E̶ DON'T CLIMB IN BANNED AREAS!
Cal Mather & Dany Carline x Albany
‘The bouldering around Albany feels a lot like the lost city of Atlantis. Legendary, almost fictional, and everything is underwater! Not quite, a bit of seaspray and a keen eye on the tide times is the worst of it. The best of it however, is some of the gneiss-est rock down under and the serenity of watching waves roll in between burns. The potential for development along the coast feels endless, and I hope the rip currents drag us back soon and keep us there a little longer next time!’
📸by @chandalala__ , @calmather & @guanxiadventures
“The Temple’s left arete project immediately stood out as the Kingline of Dagobah. The rock quality is about as good as Aussie granite gets, it looked like it packed in some sweet moves, and the striking steep arete looming over just begged to be climbed! The local crew had been trying it to an obvious edge halfway up, so it made sense to open this line as a stepping stone to the full vision (that’s right, there’s just enough holds to take it to the top). I was happy to piece Rogue One together in a few attempts, as my skin wouldn’t have allowed for many more! I can’t wait to get back in some cooler connies to try the full line.” — @calmather
🎥: @marcusreads
🔸Conquistador Direct 🔸 8B
Last day best yay! After a really fun month of squeezin' Swizzy silly and healing up the finger, I was happy to finally find a mini proj in this style during my last week of the trip. I was mostly keen to try the original line, but after doing that one I got sucked into the direct exit. The cheeky little bugger of a quartz crystal foot that the normal method revolves around put a hole in my shoe lol, so I looked for some alt beta. Heading out right to a welcoming crimp and hand heel matching proved to be a really enjoyable sequence, and the boulder came together over three chilly sessions in the Schattental riverbed.
So grateful to @thenorthface_aunz for helping make this trip happen! I'm sure Dreamtime will pull me back in no time, but for now I'm ready to head home to a warm hug from Dany :)
📸 by biiig homie @mo.mirza - who unfortunately suffered from a rare case of last day rest day...
@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#boomerellipses #neverstopexploring
Doot doo doooo nothing to see here just a couple of the best 8A's in Ticinoooo 🙈 Ft. Nobody Ist Der Größte & Jungle Book
📸 @ht.rak & @mo.mirza respectively and respectfully
@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#ohwellll #neverstopexploring
'Bodge Job' 8A+
Beautiful squeezer in Bavona put up by @nathanphillipsclimbing a couple years back. Took some time to trust in the landing not to fall away, or that I wouldn't fly off it altogether holdin' the rip!
📸 @mo.mirza@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#neverstopexploring
'Delusion of Grandeur' 8A+
Back in Ticino with some dodgy digits and a resulting lust for slopers... but oh, how I yearn for crimps!! Would love to have continued the story on Dreamtime but the fingers had other plans this trip. Alas, I'll take it in stride and appreciate the opportunity to switch things up. Sempre avanti! ⚔️
📸 Isaac Van Hoogstraaten
@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#neverstopexploring
What started as a silly bet turned into one of the most fun days out in ages! It felt like I got to experience climbing on this amazing boulder for the first time again.
And I'm up $50 babyyy 😼
🎥 @chandalala__@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#neverstopgettingthedogsout #wholetthedogsout #climbing #bouldering #rockclimbing
Taking the victory swing on the FA of 'Full Metal Bicep' (V11ish) at Between The Sheeps a few weeks ago. I whipped up a wee edit of the double digits boulders I established in the Grampians this season, up now on the TY channel :)
📸 @zachtram@thenorthface_aunz@_openproject
#neverstopexploring
