Karma Bizarre (FA?)
All the love to Font š
I got to do this sit start to Karma from the Bizarre Bizarre start, any bleausards know if this had been done before?
Had a blast figuring it out, crazy 3D style that somehow is par for the course in Font! Felt about 7C+/8A to get into the stand, I ended up struggling the most with just being able to relax and weight the smears after the big swing. Felt in the 8B range all together.
Cuisinere, my absolute favorite spot in the forest, I miss it already š³
about lately #hashtag
lots of snow, but ya still gotta go. got up a few cool things amidst all the craziness of this weather and world
bloc 1: Prism Break v10 FA
bloc 2: Over the Median v12 FA
bloc 3: Continental Drift v11 FA
- Smugglers Cove -
We spent the summer in Vermont with our feet in this stream, slowly stitching together a treasure map of incredible lines under this roof. And buried treasure really feels like the best way to describe it, as the wall cleaned up it yielded these sculpted holds and flowy moves that together make for one of the best roofs Iāve climbed on.
Practically moving into @aaronitzl ās house, we rallied the 4hr drive some 9 or 10 weekends in a row. It felt like this serendipitous moment in time, on our second visit a tree had fallen into the river, and so in cleaning it up it gave us all we needed to build the landing. A summer of drought left us witness to the water levels sinking, until thankfully the return of the rain marked the end of the season, and the river reclaimed the ground under the roof.
We finally finished up a video with the random bits and moments we caught, and Iāll link it in my bio. Itās filled with some of my absolute favorites First Ascents Iāve ever done, and the whole experience was a complete highlight of the year. 2025 was a good one, cheers all š„
King Condor - v15 - FA
Hard to really know where to begin with this one. Moments after sending, I laid back in the net with Grace and stared up at this monolith of stone thatās possessed me for so long. It felt like some sort of time machine, transporting me back the 11 years to when I first stood under it. How can something stay so unchanged while Iāve changed so much?
In 2016, I was sure it was a crazy one arm dyno method. Then in 2022, I figured out this wild handcuffed kneebar method that was surely the way. March 2025 I started to realize there was another position I could hold⦠and maybe I could move into it? Just maybe I could move out of it? It led to what would become this really turnt drop knee method.
It wasnāt till last season that I first did all the moves. I was probably nearing my 100th session. Iāve always been an optimist when it came to projecting climbs. Or maybe itās delusion. Either way - showing up can get you far.
King Condor breaks down with a 3 move powerful v14, into a super positional, funky v12. Thereās drop knees, knee bars, feet first sections; itās an incredibly cool sequence only 1upped by how amazing the grips are.
Thank you Grace for the endless support out there. And thanks all else who helped make it happen. One of these days Iāll try to better translate all my thoughts into words and share some more.
Scenes from the Darkside // Can it please be Fall forever?
Two new ones Iāve wanted to do for ages! Both maybe in the 10/11 range?
The Seamstress - Vid 1
Where the Light Begins - Vid 2
Mr. Nobody & Shadow Thief
Over the weekend I closed the chapter on two climbs Iāve been trying for years. It felt damn good getting them done.
Both of these I first tried while they were projects, so big ups and thanks to @hoyt.austin and @benblackmore01 for getting them done first and giving me the inspiration and footsteps to follow.
@jakeclimber was there the first day I tried the Mr Nobody project. @aaronitzl not only opened his house the whole summer to us, but also envisioned the Shadow Thief line. A really cool full circle moment to have both of them there for me.
Been a fun journey, I love this shit. Keep going.
1-Mr Nobody
2-Shadow Thief
3-My Fall Crown
4-2017 The day I first tried and then subsequently broke the key crux hold on Mr Nobody. It was a right hand undercling that is now replaced by the pinch At the time I didnāt see the higher undercling out left and wasnāt sure it still went, although Iād throw some chalk on it everytime I went up.
5-2018 Giving Shadow Thief my absolute all back when it was still a project. Nowadays an effort like that would sideline me for a week š
6-2018 Later that same day, channeling my long-john speed suit powers to romp at Bolton with an all time crew. I felt obligated to go speed suit mode on Mr Nobody with Jake there, maybe theres something to it ā·ļø
7- 2022 Testing the MUCH better ending beta that had been figured out since I first tried it
8- 2022 The day I first did all the moves on the Mr Nobody proj! Back when I thought youād use that glass pinch on the face
9- 2024 My best effort the day after Austin sent, after giving it hell the day before too
10- 2025 A split second moment where I thought I popped every pulley š
A fun finish to a VT weekend, checking out @burlybloc . Sweet space that the climbing world could use more of! Community is king.
This was the @kiltergrips@urbanplastix ābounty blocā at 60°. Thanks @dantejelinek for filming and the session!
What an amazing feeling to be back in the forest after 7 years apart. This place will forever hold a special spot in my soul, and while some things have changed the magic of the forest seems eternal.
Thereās been lots of really hard, really cool boulders put up since the last time I was here, and I mainly spent our week sampling as many as I could. This place continues to be a proving ground with insane potential, in all ranges of the grades.
In an effort to prove my youth I sunk my teeth into āYoungsters Roofā, a new one from @ethansalvo that has all the strange Squamish style I absolutely love.
Can I still be considered a youngster if it left me with a tweaky bicep+knee+wrist? All in good fun eh? šØš¦
Ripple Effect - v13/14 - FA
Fierce but fun. Not too long, yet very involved.
Every session there I found a new swirl, spiral, or stripe to stare at. Soaked up the evening rays and watched the moss glow. Then sent it one go after my ālast goā.
Does it get any better than that?
Really enjoyed this one. @gracie_hamilton_17 put together a nice video, link in my bio.
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