Two days before
@Matthieu_Blazy âs first Cruise show in Biarritz, he walked me through the collection look by look.
It began with a little black dress⌠except the real drama was hiding behind it.
âWhat people donât know is that that dress was not minimal at all,â he told me. âWhen it was sketched for Vogue, it was sketched just from the front.â Then he found the back: âIt had a huge bow. Huge!â
Matthieu seems more interested in finding the loose thread and pulling.
âSo what we did,â he said, âbasically, we redid the dress as the sketch I saw, and the bow becomes the bag.â
Of course the bow becomes the bag.
That was the logic: transformation, not decoration. A bow becomes a bag. A logo becomes a neckline. Newspaper becomes almost tweed. A parasol becomes a (cashmere and raffia) skirt. Cotton becomes precious. Fishnet becomes attitude. A 3D-printed bag goes into water.
And then there was the chilli.
Matthieu showed me a jacket with tiny red chilli pepper buttons. He grinned. Smiling with the glee of someone who knew exactly what he was doing, he said: âI know you love chilli.â
I was shocked. How does CHANELâs Artistic Director of Fashion Activities know this tiny fact about me? That I love spicy food?
It was thoughtful. Sweet. Rare. Not flattery. A human detail, placed exactly where it should be: on a jacket, a button, a necklace, blown up into an earring, and on a little bag as beaded embellishment.
What Matthieu is doing at Chanel is looking properly: at backs, linings, seams, useful fabrics, forgotten sketches, Gabrielleâs wardrobe, the women around her, the way a towel wraps around a body, the way a hat can be shade and fantasy at once.
My fellow Swede
@DarthNoor Noor Khan opened the show in that little black dress with the bow bag and closed it in a blue mermaid look.
The only model with two looks.
That is the point. A woman is not one image. She is entrance and exit, discipline and fantasy, black dress and sea creature.
In Biarritz, Chanel did not repeat itself. It changed form.
Some houses still think transformation means changing the set. Here, the woman changed.
CHANEL! What a delight! More on my Substack later! â¤ď¸
@chanelofficial