After bolting it is time to try new routes... Today we were climbing the west wall of Vela Stiniva and on amazing new sector of Pokrivenik called Zeus. Totaly unique, with for Dalmatia atypical rock formations...
Climbing spot Prskalo ( Bosnia and Herzegovina). Great place with bit of everything, from tufas to crimps. Short and long routes, slabs and overhangs. Really top spot!
Last weekend, together with Saša Kmezić, I made the first ascent of my new route, which is located in the North Face of Anića Kuk (my thirteenth in total in Anića Kuk). I equipped the route in a ground up style with the help of my friend Žarko Kaličanin, who was an excellent belayer. It took me three days to equip it. The story goes something like this - the routes are listed: Golden years, Zenit, Ultimate fight, Immortals, 50 and life to go, Alive and finally End game. So only Overtime is left. Is it real end now?
The route is beautiful, especially the third, almost entirely overhanging pitch, although all the others are very beautiful. In some places, the rock can still break, as always when the route is new. For a repeat, 15 quickdraws are needed, and Camalots 0.75 and 0.5 can help, although they are not necessary if larger distances between bolts are not a problem for you. Descending with a rope is possible from the end of the fifth pitch. Grades need to be confirmed by repeaters.
And finally, thanks to Žarko and Saša for the partnership!
Grades : 6a+,6b+,7b,6c,6c,6b
--
Javornica - another hidden gem. This one is near Omiš. Up to 25 m high overhang full of tufas. Stiff grading, not easy routes, 6c for warm up. To enjoy you need to be good in grades 7 and up. Perfect for summer!
