One day I showed up at La Boca to find my buddy @diegogallz climbing an impressive looking line in the middle of the main face. He got me psyched to try it and that's what I did.
Projecting is not really my thing but seeing my friends @diegogallz@collin.pabon@riri_pip persevering on their projects made me hop on their vibes and try it for myself.
After many attempts spread over a bit more than two weeks, I managed to send “Abduction Annunaki (5.13c)”. When I finally clipped the chains, it felt just like another time skipping the last draw so I unclipped the anchor and took the whip. It was the same whip I took on my previous attempt falling while clipping the anchor with the slack in my hand, except this time I had made it. Just like my friend Jarvis says “climbing is so silly”.
📹 @_cepedaalex
En tant que Canadien et Chilien, Torres del Paine occupe une place spéciale dans mon cœur. En 2019, j’ai eu la chance de voir la formation granitique pour la première fois et je me suis promis qu’un jour je reviendrais pour la grimper. En janvier dernier, @stmicheljerome , @gmichaud_climbs et moi avons tenté de grimper la Torre Central en libre. En plein été austral, nous avons eu droit à des conditions météo brutales. Dans certains passages, j’ai eu la chance de me coincer les doigts dans des fissures gelées et même de balayer de mes mains de la grêle accumulée sur des prises mouillées. C’était toute une aventure!
📸: @gmichaud_climbs
Assuré par @stmicheljerome@lasportivana@petzl_official@authentik_canada@cafe_bloc@happyyak.ca
#rockclimbing #climbing #expedition #torresdelpainenationalparks #climber #adventure #adventuretime #wilderness #wildernessculture #explore #outdoorphotography #aventure #patagonia #patagoniachile #torresdelpaine #parquesnacionales #patagoniachilena #loveantarctica #adventureculture #welivetoexplore #liveoutdoors #wildernessnation #chile #Visitchile #nature #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbingphotography #exploremore
"The moment I first tied-in, it just clicked. The only thing that truly mattered to me was THE tie-in. What if I could climb every route in one single tie-in, connecting all the routes together? A lifetime of perfection!"
While this video is a satire, last fall I did manage to send the “Joshua Tree Triple.”
The three classic cracks of Joshua Tree:
Asteroid Crack (5.13a trad)
Acid Crack (5.12d trad)
Equinox (5.12c trad)
#aprilfools
Poison in every puff
A documentary by @ab_mathias
A free climb attempt in Patagonia becomes an intimate research for identity and belonging.
Watch on ELEVI - 🔗 Link in bio
#elevi
Stuck in our portaleges in heavy weather, 450m above the glacier, @gmichaud_climbs , @stmicheljerome and I waited out a major storm.
We had to wait 5 days straight. We tried to use the short weather windows, but in vain. The rain and snow would catch up as soon as we'd get out.
Not moving for that long got my body ankylosed pretty bad.
The film will be available March 27th on @elevi.film
After climbing and fixing ropes to our high point just below Boeing Ledge, we woke up in the mist to a mix of rain, snow, and ice.
It was surreal to see the wall completely frozen, with accumulations clinging to the vertical rock above us. @gmichaud_climbs , @stmicheljerome and I could only hope the storm would pass quickly.
The film will be available March 27th on @elevi.film
The first section of the South African Route sometimes felt like a game of Jenga, loose, unstable, and unpredictable.
We placed cams and nuts not just for protection, but also to redirect the rope and avoid dislodging death blocks.
Fun fact: while studying the wall and comparing it to the topo, there was a 60-meter section we just couldn’t figure out. Once on the wall, we realized why. A 60m x 60m block had fallen. The pitch simply didn’t exist anymore.
In this clip, @stmicheljerome dislodges a massive death block mid-pitch, while @gmichaud_climbs reassures me that our gear at the base is protected from the rockfalls.
The film will be available March 27th on @elevi.film .
As we approached the east face of the Torre Central, the wall ignited in gold beneath a flawless sky, calm before whatever the mountain had in store.
After climbing and fixing the first 400m just before a storm, we finally returned and stepped onto the wall carrying 15 days of food. We were now committing to life off the ground.
@gmichaud_climbs , @stmicheljerome and I began the long ascent, hauling to establish our vertical camp high above the glacier.
The film will be available on @elevi.film on March 27th.
In january 2024, @gmichaud_climbs , @stmicheljerome and I went to Torres Del Paine to attempt to free climb the east face of the Torre Central via the South African Route (5.12c trad, VI, 1300m).
To make this ascent in autonomy, we decided that the three of us would cary all our gear to the base of the route without the help of porters. It ended up taking us many days to cary everything up there!
The film will be available on @elevi.film on March 27th.
The conditions were worse then what you see in the film.
Patagonia doesn’t care about your plans.
Poison in every puff
On ELEVI March 23
@ab_mathias
#elevi