A pretty psycho afternoon by all accounts - made better by the fact that I got to share it with some top fellas. It was far from easy and im still not at the level I want to be out in the heavier slabs but persistence will pay off - got my ass handed to me plenty of times but moments like these are what makes it all worthwhile. Huge thanks to @diegobalestro_ for capturing this one.
A session that I will remember for a long time. From studying the Atlantic power and trying to figure out a way into the waves under the ledge - getting multiple beat downs and eventually getting the ones I’ve been looking for. Its been a pleasure Ireland. 🍀
📹 @diegobalestro_
A winter of threading backdoor drainers on my favourite stretch of sand - I remember barely scratching into this one blinded by south easterly’s and the low winter sun, found my feet stood tall and just stepped on the gas, followed the trail of light and snuck out the flap.
🎥@cutbackcarter
Somehow made it to 27 and what a ride so far. Been high, been low, bottled shit up and then unashamedly let it out. Life’s a rollercoaster and we ain’t always strapped in but that’s the beauty of it. Troughs and peaks. Thankfully I have surfing, skateboarding, Family and the best friends I could ever ask for. Here’s a round up of things that set my soul on fire and just me being unapologetically me🫡 here’s to another year of tryna keep it core and keeping it real. Hopefully I can try buss a few helicopter spins just like the last slide in the water a little later on 🖤
Scooping under a few teepees to see this year in nicely. Good sand, good swell, the usual lords and magic boards 🪄 @nssurfboards
Drone @nickkennedyverri
