DESIDERIUM

@___desiderium

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237
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19.85%
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Weeks posts
@okay.kaya in Balenciaga and Ann Demeulemeester from Desiderium for @teethmag . Photography @zhenyaminaeva Styling and Art Direction @jaykimvalentine Makeup @makeup_annakato Hair @earth.to.karen Styling Assistant @jessmelow
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1 year ago
Vetements Spring Summer 2016 reversible hoodie Look 27 / Look 28 Demna Gvasalia From Vetements’ Spring Summer 2016 runway, one of the collections that defined Demna Gvasalia’s early Vetements era and cemented the brand’s fascination with uniforms, authority garments, and everyday archetypes. Two versions of this hoodie appeared on the runway. The grey version, shown here, features the collegiate style VETEMENTS graphic across the back, referencing classic American sportswear typography. The second version appeared in green with the bold POLIZEI marking across the back, referencing German police uniforms. Both hoodies share the same construction. The garment is fully reversible and designed so the hood can be worn from either side through an opening at the back neck. Functional pockets appear on both sides of the garment, reinforcing the idea that the hoodie exists equally in both identities. The Polizei motif became one of the most memorable elements of the collection. Demna has spoken about collecting and wearing real security and police uniforms, and the reference was so convincing that a buyer wearing the SS16 “Polizei” trench coat in Germany was reportedly detained by police and had the coat confiscated before Vetements later replaced it. To highlight the reference, this piece is styled with an authentic 1990s German police Gore Tex raincoat featuring the same POLIZEI back marking seen throughout the collection. The pairing shows how closely Vetements’ design language pulled from real European uniform garments, transforming them into fashion while preserving their visual authority. A key example of early Vetements. Familiar clothing codes reworked into something confrontational, ironic, and immediately recognizable. Size Small Available.
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2 months ago
Saint Laurent Paris SS2013 Silk Lavallière Bow Choker From Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013, presented October 2012 at the Grand Palais in Paris. This show marked Hedi Slimane’s first women’s collection he ever designed, following his era-defining menswear at Dior Homme. Sheer black silk lavallière / pussy-bow neck tie mounted on a leather choker base, a recurring styling element across the runway appearing in 29 of the 66 looks in various forms. The bow helped define the show’s visual language with sharp black tailoring, sheer blouses, and oversized wide-brim hats that gave the collection its stark, almost witch-like silhouette. A signature accessory from Slimane’s debut women’s runway collection.
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2 months ago
Chanel Fall 2003 silk runway skirt Look 39 by Karl Lagerfeld From Chanel’s Fall 2003 runway during Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure as creative director (1983–2019). A beautiful early-2000s Chanel piece showcasing Lagerfeld’s mix of delicate lingerie references with classic Chanel tailoring. Cream pleated silk construction with a black satin waistband, rows of small black button embellishments across the upper pleats, and a black lace slip hem mirroring the layered styling seen on the runway look. Beautiful archival Chanel from the Lagerfeld era. Size 36 Made in France Available now — link in bio.
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2 months ago
BOY / Seditionaries creeper boots early 1980s. Early 1980s boots produced by BOY London under a licensed Seditionaries design originating from the King’s Road scene shaped by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood. During this period several Seditionaries designs were licensed to BOY, allowing the brand to manufacture and distribute versions of these pieces while remaining tied to the same punk lineage that emerged from SEX and Seditionaries. The boots feature a black leather creeper construction with wrap strap closure, foldover tongue and metal hardware across the toe, reflecting the aggressive hardware driven aesthetic associated with early 1980s London punk. A similar pair can be seen worn by Robert Smith of The Cure, linking the style directly to the post-punk visual culture of the era. Vintage condition. Please judge wear from photos. Size 8 available Link in bio
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2 months ago
Miu Miu FW2000 knit top look 7. From Miuccia Prada’s Fall Winter 2000 collection for Miu Miu, a season that explored soft feminine knitwear silhouettes paired with understated tailoring. The show balanced delicate fitted knits with tailored shorts and minimal footwear, creating a subtle contrast between intimacy and refinement. This knit appears as look 7 on the runway. Constructed in a fitted wool knit, it features a sculpted sweetheart neckline and short sleeves finished with softly flared cuffs. The shape is body skimming and slightly romantic, reflecting the understated femininity that defined much of the collection. A similar sweetheart knit silhouette appeared elsewhere in the show, reinforcing the soft knitwear motif that ran throughout the collection. Made in Italy. Size 42 IT available Link in bio.
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2 months ago
Maison Margiela FW2008 nail heel boots. From Martin Margiela’s Fall Winter 2008 collection, a season where the nail heel appeared repeatedly throughout the runway. The heel is designed to resemble a metal nail driven through the sole, reflecting Margiela’s continued interest in reworking everyday objects into elements of fashion design. The nail heel was used across several silhouettes in the show including ankle boots and taller boots worn with multiple looks, becoming a recurring visual detail within the collection. This pair is the suede ankle boot version, finished in distressed black suede with the exposed metal nail heel and internal side zip closure. Size 37 available Link in bio.
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2 months ago
Maison Margiela SS16 Runway Coat — Final Look (Look 30) Under the creative direction of John Galliano, Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 pushed boundaries with a surrealist fusion of deconstruction and couture-level tailoring. This collection explored the tension between restraint and expression, blending classic menswear tropes with avant-garde silhouettes and theatrical gestures. This double-breasted full-length overcoat was featured as the closing look (Look 30) on the SS16 runway a key moment that emphasized Galliano’s narrative of formality undone. Crafted in heavyweight structured wool with contrasting silk peak lapels, the coat exemplifies Margiela’s rigorous attention to cut, fabric, and finish. It features an exposed stitch detail, single rear vent, buttoned cuffs, and full lining all Made in Italy with impeccable precision. This is a rare archival piece, offered in good condition with original tags. One front button is slightly loose (easily repairable), otherwise pristine. A true collector’s item from Galliano’s early Margiela era.
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9 months ago
MOSCHINO FW14 SpongeBob wool sweater. Featured in look 36/49 This piece comes from Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2014 Ready-to-Wear collection, the debut runway of Jeremy Scott as creative director. Known for his playful irreverence and maximalist flair, Scott made an unforgettable entrance by fusing high fashion with pop culture iconography. The collection reimagined consumer symbols—like McDonald’s golden arches and SpongeBob SquarePants—into bold, tongue-in-cheek couture. It was both a love letter to kitsch and a critique of consumerism, blurring the lines between irony and homage. The SpongeBob motif became one of the collection’s most iconic moments, instantly cementing the line as a collector’s favorite in fashion history.
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1 year ago
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009 by Miuccia Prada patent leather and mink fur platform heels. Featured in look 17, embody one of the key tensions of the collection — the contrast between plush softness and slick, polished surfaces. The pairing of mink and glossy patent leather speaks to the duality at the heart of the season. This collection explored the space between youth and maturity, romanticism and restraint, and a kind of corporate sensuality. Silhouettes were short and sculptural; materials like fur, silk, and wool softened the severity of precise tailoring. Most looks were anchored by patent heels, giving structure and edge to otherwise delicate, feminine forms. Miuccia Prada leaned into bourgeois tropes — secretaries, schoolgirls, debutantes — but twisted them into something quietly subversive. The result was a wardrobe of contradictions: uniforms that seduce, elegance that resists, beauty that questions itself. Note these specific heels are a slightly altered ready to wear version without the mink fur covering the strap up top.
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1 year ago
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane — Spring/Summer 2006 Waxed MA-1 Bomber Jacket This rare waxed MA-1 bomber jacket is featured in Hedi Slimane’s iconic Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2006 collection, “The World Was a Mess but His Hair Was Perfect.” Worn in look 47 of 59, this version comes with full-length sleeves—a collector’s variation from the sleeveless runway edition. The piece reflects Slimane’s signature blend of military utility and rockstar elegance, rendered in a waxed, high-sheen fabric that gives it a lived-in, effortlessly cool edge. Cropped and slim-fitting, the silhouette speaks directly to Slimane’s vision of youth lean, restless, and sharply dressed.
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1 year ago
Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2018 collection was a cinematic tribute to Blade Runner and dystopian futurism, blending neon-soaked visuals with punk and new-wave influences. Set in a dark, rain-drenched alley in Chinatown, New York, the show featured oversized silhouettes, vinyl trenches, and deconstructed layering. Graphic prints referenced Blade Runner themes, while rubber boots and plastic-covered garments evoked a futuristic, industrial feel. The collection balanced sci-fi nostalgia with Raf’s signature subversive tailoring, making it one of his most visually striking runway presentations. This tank top features the iconic Joy Division Unknown Pleasures graphic—originally an astronomical data visualization, adapted by Peter Saville for the band’s 1979 album cover. A symbol of post-punk culture, the image has since become one of the most recognizable in both music and fashion. A key foundation piece in the SS18 Blade Runner collection, variations of this asymmetrical tank appeared in 15 of 51 looks, often layered under dystopian-inspired outerwear. The raw edges, distressed side ties, and deconstructed cut reflect Raf’s signature aesthetic, merging punk rebellion with futuristic styling. This specific top was featured in Look 27 of 51.
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1 year ago